Day One

Start Your Engines

The first thing they tell you is, “If anyone asks, this is NOT a race.”

 

Apparently, if you decide to ride tiny, toy Motorcycles across a desert country, people will stop you and ask about it.

And sometimes, those people wear the uniforms of the Moroccan police. And if you tell them that you are doing a “race”, they will put you in jail.

They probably should’ve jailed us anyway, for the sheer stupidity of it all.

Who in their right mind would think it a good idea to pay money to spend seven days riding across the entirety of Morocco on 49cc bikes originally designed for Japanese schoolchildren? Well, this company. My friend Danny. His cousin Kevin.

And me.

One summer day in 2017, Danny texted me a photo of a tiny bike on a sand dune, and said, “I’m doing this!”

He just so happened to text me while I was sitting in a cubicle, writing B2B copy for a cell phone company. I had just broken up with a girlfriend. I wasn’t in the desert, but I certainly already felt lost. How much more lost could I get? So I texted him back.

“Can I come?”

It was a whirlwind even getting to the starting line.

Danny and I decided to do some sightseeing in Fez before we met up with Kevin and the rest of the Monkey Run crew in Merzouga, deep in the southeast of the country.

We arrived at dusk and IMMEDIATELY got lost in the medina, having to pay some local kids to help us get out. The next day we overpaid for some leather jackets we then had to carry across Morocco (I still own and love mine to this day, so who conned who?)

Then Danny and I took an overnight bus with mostly locals across the country, only to find absolutely no taxis in the morning in Merzouga. We set out to walk the three miles to our hotel, only to be picked up by a man with a tractor not two hundred yards into our walk.

Meanwhile, Kevin decided to put EVERY LAST IMPORTANT ITEM into his checked bag, including cash, his camera, his camping gear, underwear, and shirts, only for Air Maroc to promptly lose it. He spent the rest of the trip begging, borrowing, and stripping for supplies (see below).

But eventually, we made it. To the starting line, and to our rides.

I had never ridden a motorcycle before.

Neither had Danny or Kevin. But weirdly enough, the Monkey Bikes were a great place to start. For one, they couldn’t go very fast. My bike’s top speed was about 70kph (45 mph), downhill, rattling and protesting that this wasn’t a very good idea. And also, they were very low to the ground. So if you crashed (when), you didn’t have far to fall.

The first clue was in the name. They were called Monkey Bikes, because the way normal people scrunched onto them gave the appearance of a gorilla riding a bicycle. Second, because they were so small, the weight distribution was way off. Lean back, even a little bit, and you ran the risk of the bike popping a wheelie and flying out from underneath you.

And finally. The original Monkey Bikes were made by Honda. These were not the original monkey bikes. These were Chinese knock-offs, and many had made the trek across Morocco before. We were warned to expect breakdowns. Lots of breakdowns. But we were told the Moroccan people were handy, and usually happy to help. Plus, if your tire popped, wheelbarrow tires usually fit just fine.

 
 

Our Goal was simple. Get to Marrakech in Seven Days.

The Adventurists (the company putting on the Monkey Run) got you the bikes, the paperwork, they arranged accommodations at the start and finish, brought beer for the parties, and that was about it. Break down? You’re on your own. Get lost? Hope you brought a map. It wasn’t an adventure if they did all the problem solving, is what they said.

Looking at the maps we had, it was pretty clear you could get to the finish line in three days, if you took the highways. But this was strongly discouraged.

Again, this wasn’t a race, this was a run. Speed wasn’t what was celebrated, stories were. So they suggested we take the long way round. Which is exactly what the three of us decided to do. We also were determined to do it without the use of our cell phones, which had surprisingly good service the entire time we were in country. But who needs modern technology when you had three outdated maps, three compasses, and a bit of determination?

They made sure to throw us a big party before the launch so we were all feeling terrible.

 

The Cous-Cousins, just before the start.

And then, just like that,

We were off.

Five kilometers later, Kevin’s bike died.

A quick check of the gas tank revealed that some wily Adventurist employee hadn’t filled up his bike the whole way. Or, really, at all. But it certainly wasn’t a very good omen.

Thankfully, we packed some straps, and we were able to tow his bike to a gas station nearby. Slowly. By the time we got to the pump, the station had been invaded by most of the fifty or so other Monkey Bikers, filling up their tanks and whatever spare plastic bottles they could scrounge in case of emergency.

 

And just like that, we were off… again.

I still felt unconfident on the back of the bike and uneasy with the back road through a world not particularly fond of Americans these days. But on the other hand, this was incredible. All of it was incredible. I was taking any fears I had and giving them a tiny motorcycle sized middle finger.

We pushed west the whole day, making our way through small desert town after back desert road after windswept two lane highway. We stopped at a little cafe for a lunch and a mint tea. Then we continued onward, buzzing down the Moroccan “highway”, without a destination in mind. 

We made it all the way until 5:00pm until we had our first crash.

I was zipping through a small village, no more than a collection of houses off the main road, and really starting to get the hang of it. I was leaning into my turns, driving a little faster, I was becoming a MOTORCYCLE MAN. And then I took a left turn, leaned in a little too hard, failing to notice the gravel that had crept onto the otherwise dirt packed road. Suddenly, my bike was suddenly no longer where I had put it. Both the bike and my side went sliding along the gravel several feet before coming to a stop.

I popped up laughing, more from the adrenaline than anything else, but aside from a few scrapes along my left side, I was okay. It was then I noticed several kids sitting by the side of the road. I had crashed with an audience, and the audience was pointing and laughing. Fair, I thought. Little did I realize what monsters the children of Morocco were. But I would. I would soon enough.

I hopped back on the bike, and we pressed on, trying to find the town of “Goulmima”. It was a larger dot on the map, so we figured it must be sizable. We started to get a little nervous, as sunset was around the corner, and we weren’t entirely sure where we were going to sleep. We didn’t know the size of the town, or whether there were hostels, or whether it was cool.

We rolled up to the town around 6:30. Everyone stared. This was to become a regular occurrence. There weren’t many people who looked like us, and there CERTAINLY weren’t many people who were riding what we were riding, so we tended to attract attention wherever we went. But we shrugged it off and located a place to stay around twenty minutes later. Turns out they had a couple rooms, including the “suite”, a small hut in the back with two beds and running water. A coup. The guy was nice enough, he took our information and charged us WAY too much for the room, but by then it was dark, so what were we going to do? We paid and took our stuff to the back.

The room was fine, but the backyard was an eden. There was a huge tent with pads to lie on, overlooking a huge garden full of rosemary and mint and an irrigation system chipped out of the dirt. There was an orange tree. A beehive to harvest honey. Camels bleeted in the distance. I felt transported back in time to a distant, faraway land because I was. I was further away from anything I’ve ever done before.

We walked through the “lobby” and the manager announced, “Your friends are here!” We looked at him confused. No one was anywhere. We were the only ones in the hotel. Through broken english and pointing, we realized that he was referring to another group of monkey runners had arrived in TOWN, not even at the hotel we were staying at. This confirmed what we already felt – we weren’t going to be surprising anyone. 

We walked fifteen minutes into the town center and found a sandwich stand, where we purchased sandwiches and sodas while we chatted with the owner, a boisterous and lovely man with a thick mustache and a lot to say about volleyball, strangely enough.

We took another walk down a few streets, before getting creeped out and headed back to the hotel to sleep. The first day was done. 


 
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Day Two